Table Saw

Heres a thread to discuss the setup/config of the table saw.

First up, the stand i’ve been building is almost done, just needs a final paint coat. Once we install it on that stand it probably wont move again.

See the woodworking 2017 thread for layout details. I’m still seeking thoughts on the orientation, as I’m a bit concerned about the door being right behind the saw.

Current Status

We’re waiting on the interlock system from @nogthree, which is very close I believe. I’m also working on induction materials. We may also get one of the people from leda in to give us some training. Hopefully we can get people using the saw as soon as possible.


We’re trying to get up a LMS platform, currently OpenEDX. Essentially it will be watch video, take test, repeat. Once you pass that course there will be regular tuesday ‘last hour’ checks in person. So if you can help with getting the LMS working, or help with shooting video, I’d like to hear about it :slight_smile:

I’ve got some suuuuper rough notes about points to cover, so help to flesh that out into a course would be great.

Shopping List

Theres a bit of a list of supplementary items the saw will need. Everything table saw specific will live in a cabinet under the saw itself, and removal on pain of death etc etc etc.



  • Dial Gauge, (Digital Version), w/ Magnetic Base. These are extremely useful for measuring any blade runout, or for micro adjustments to the fence to shave just a hair more.
  • Digital Protractor. This is a more expensive model but when you compare it against other ebay cheapies it seems worth the money, just on accuracy/precision mainly. They’re useful for lots of stuff but on the saw you can stick them to the blade as a second or third check on your angle.
  • Depth Gauge. For accurately setting blade height, which is a more critical operation when doing joinery cuts.
  • Square. The linked one is expensive, so I’d like a more reasonable alternative. Something metal and sturdy and with 90º and 45º.


The saw currently has a combination blade thats a bit more on the ‘rip’ side of things. It will probably do fine for a while but blade wise, I’d like to see us with:

  • 1 Rip Blade
  • 1 Combination Blade
  • 1 Fine blade for fine cuts, plastics etc.
  • 1 Flat Grind blade for joinery. I called and they can do a 32 tooth angled blade and regrind it for us for about $180 all up.
  • 1 Aluminium blade. People will absolutely attempt to cut aluminium on this saw, historically speaking. I’m fine with it so long as they dont bugger up the other blades.

I’m open for blade recommendations, not particularly fussed on brand or specific details so let me know in this thread if you have preferences. Blades will be stored in the cabinet under the saw, with documentation on them. Will be making holders for them so they dont get bumped about and chipped etc.

Helpers / Safety

  • Featherboards
  • We will need to make a few selections of appropriate push sticks and push shoes. Push pads are banned on the saw as far as I am concerned.
  • Does anyone have a particular hard on for the micro gripper thing? I’m not convinced. Like $200 for one and then more for the buckets of accessories. I feel like people will just cut into it etc.

Materials for building accessories

  • UHMW Plastic for protective fence faces? Can also be used for mitre sliders for jigs.
  • Krieg track in bulk, this will be used around the shop generally. On the saw it will be used in protective fence faces and sacrificial fences etc.
  • Mitre Track and slide for outfeed tables and other items. Another type of mitre slide is also available. Not sure if theres a huge advantage to those slides over cutting UHMW.

Other Items

  • Metal Detector. I’ve done a bit of looking around and this one has the best specs. Can detect up to 6" deep, spots non ferrous stuff like aluminium etc.

But what about DADO’s?

Well, this saw cant take a dado stack unfortunately. We have some options, like roughly covered in the Woodworking 2017 thread, the outfeed table may dual purpose into a router table which we can set up for dado cutting. Perhaps down the line we can get our hands on another cheaper table saw to put into the island and it can be the dado exclusive saw. Another option is if we end up with a radial arm saw. Lets just see what opportunities pop up.

We will have a flat grind blade, as detailed above, so joinery is still very achievable just not as efficient as with a dado stack.


All the items above will come to probably just over a grand, most of which will be blade costs. Thats just a bit more than we have in the cause budget currently. So we may go to membership funds, or perhaps we can fundraise a bit amongst cause members or run sausage sizzles on tuesday nights. Ideas welcome.


Anything I’ve missed? Let me know.

Hey guys,

To help with collating the induction into one coherent document I’ve copied the rough notes that @devians posted above into a new document on the domain.

You can find it here - and I’ve invited people who I’ve seen express interest in helping already but I might have missed a couple. Please feel free to request via the edit link or ping me :slight_smile:

As discussed in the meeting last night, it seems like we’re leaning towards keeping the tablesaw facing the way it is and just closing the woodshop door when using it.

The only thing I’d add is it may be worth having some kind of sign to stick to the outside of the door to stop someone from opening the door while the saw is running. Or kind of like a “recording” light which goes on when the current detector is active for the saw. That’s just a bit more effort.

Added a suggestion for an introduction/overview video. Not much but every little bit helps?