Woodshop Cause Meeting, Wed 8th July 8pm. Onsite + Online

Hi All!

We need to have a woodshop cause meeting and spend some money and talk some plans!


As of writing the agenda, we have $2500 in cause funds, plus the grant funding for the pantorouter.

  • Planning for the CNC Import
  • Timbecon Order:
  • Approving budget for materials for new mitre station
  • Approvng budget to restock consumables
  • Replacing the Hitachi drop saw with this Bosch. The hitachi’s are just really worn out and I’m pretty tired of trying to source parts and keep them running. We tried the cheap $300 swap but I think its time for a new tool. This bosch is ideal because it is very space efficient while still taking our standard blades.

Plus any other items people want to add.

Hi, I’ve checked Timbecon to see if something caught my interest. Here’s a list of the things I think could be beneficial for the space. Keep in mind that timbecon for some products is quite expensive, but anyway here we go.

Torquata Flat-Top Dado Saw Blades

6mm kerf. The arbor or our saw is not long enough to support a dado set, but this blade is cheap and we could make some jigs around it, like a box joint jig or such.


Table Saw Fence Aftermarket Complete Assembly

I think it would be nice to have a better fence system, that is quicker and more reliable.
This is a biesemeyer style fence, i think we would spend the same money by making it out self.


iGaging EZ-View Pro Digital Read Out Scales

This with the previous one would make our saw more precise, reliable, with less hassle and error.
The only downside of this is that we would be loosing a littlebit of ripping meassured capacity.


Micro Jig GRR-Ripper Advanced Control System

Because safety first, good ol’ grripper.


Torquata Router Bit Tidies Organiser

I would get a couple of this, they are cheap enough to not bother printing them and we need to get those router bits in order.


Milescraft Sub-Fence Clamp Brackets

These were already pointed out by Josh. They will reduce setup time in the table saw drastically.


Incra V120 Mitre Guide

No hassle with this mitre gauge, acurate cuts with minimun setup. Adding and aluminum fence to this makes it a beast.


Sherwood Dust Extractor Vacuum Head Adaptor

I would get at least one of these to help keeping the shop tidy.


Dust Extractor Floor Vacuum Kit

This one comes with the previous one, and brings the giant wand to clean the floor and the floor sweep head. Quite handy.


Hold Tite Hose Extraction Kits

I would get one of these on the 63mm version for the drill press.


Just some constructive feedback, please dont feel like i’m shooting things down.

We already have a flat top blade, whats the goal with this one?

This wont fit our saw, we would need to a) find one that fits our saw, b) justify the cost on a tool we plan to replace. Another option is for someone to build one from plans like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pudkvHFOfk

I like DRO’s, i’m just not sure our current saw is worth putting a dro on, theres a lot of places on the saw where it has very loose tolerances.

We’ve purposely not invested in the microjig gripper due to its cost and the fact that all push devices in the shop get pretty chewed up by people cutting into them. It’s a great tool if you have one in a personal woodshop and you care for it, but for our shop its too expensive to just slowly feed to a blade.

The new router table has a big set of router bit holders as part of the frame, lets investigate those first?

I’ve never really seen any evidence that people use the mitre fences we have already. Having said that, its possible that its because our existing ones are not great. So open to this idea.

Yeah these all make sense.

Adding to the agenda to buy a vfd and motor for the lathe, and optionally the remaining parts for the lathe. Motor + VFD is probably in the $600 range, replacement parts for the lathe is probably $700ish. This would have the vicmarc lathe running with (very low, not sure just yet) rpm continuous up to 3000ish rpm @ 2.2kw, which is comparable to the original spec and some lathes like the continuously adjustable jets.

FYI for anyone else, today is last day to propose financial agenda items for a wednesday meeting.

Just to be clear I chose things thinking about what it would be useful, and i don’t expect everything to get bought. I more like a kickstart to see what people think.

Not at all.

Well, the real thing it would be to have a dado set, but our arbor is quite short (I have a dado set back home and it’s a real game changer). I would say that we would benefit if we had another table saw, more american style one, to use it for jigs and joinery, but that’s a different story. The point of having 6mm keft is to get more bite in one go. As well is metric, so if you are doing jigs using metric threads is a perk. But like I said, is just and idea. I’ll try to see how many blades we could put in that arbor.

Jeremy’s fence is excellent, and i always wanted to make a biessemayer fence. But i dont know if i want to put that time there now. I dont know why u say this fence won’t fit our saw.

The DRO is removable and allegedly fittable to any machine, so we could put it on the new fence/machine or move it to a different machine.


That’s great, I didn’t know this. Let me know if you want to get that machine working.

I reckon is worth it! and is quite easy to setup, and very reliable once is tuned.


The answer is 1, theres no support at all for dado’s in this saw.

yes, one of our shortlisted models for replacement is a more american style cabinet saw. if we get the grant we will be looking at hammer brand models.

Because its a sliding panel saw, the fence has to be ‘lopsided’ ie you cant have much/anything on the left hand side where it sits on the rail. some aftermarket fence solutions account for this and have multiple mounting locations. It cant have that left hand support because thats where the slide is.

Sure, its just that a the table saw requires more than just the rip fence to be accurate, so while it might be convenient to have the dro there, theres lots of other places in the saw you have to get correct for that dro number to also be correct. For example, we have a very accurate 90º stop we machined for the saw, but because the pivot point is loose/unconstrained, its not an easy repeateable 90º. If the sliding fence is wrong, then the rip fence will be wrong if you’re using them in tandem.

I’m not against dro’s, normally i’d be an advocate for it. I just know how much work the saw has been, and how fragile it is, hence my hesitance to spend money on it.

Just bumping this to remind everyone that the woodshop cause meeting is Wednesday, 8th July at 8pm, both Onsite and Online. If you’re a cause member please attend so we can vote things through.